One of the things that I didn't talk about in the winecast 2, or rather talked about and cut, was why it is important to me to understand local flavors, in this case, South East Asian fruits...
When I try and talk about many common flavors in wine such as blackberry, blueberry, raspberry and strawberry in China, or even in Hong Kong to an extent (black currant), I come up against 3 communication barriers and a few cultural ones.
First of all, some flavors are hard to come by in China (and expensive) and as a result, it is not uncommon that I find myself talking with someone who has never had a blueberry. Secondly, if they have, they may not know the English word for blueberry, and thirdly, I don't know Mandarin for blueberry. This makes it very difficult for me to talk about wine flavors in the way I am used to doing. But who's responsibility is it to learn how to communicate when talking about wine in a culture where French and English wine speak means nothing? For me, the obvious answer is that the western world needs to make the effort and not just on vocabulary, but also on understanding local food and beverage cultural experiences.
The first reason stems from why I love drinking wine, and why I think many others do as well, which is the ability of familiar smells and flavors in wine to transport us to another place or time. I like to think about the food critic from the movie 'Ratatouille', Anton Ego. When he takes his first bite of Ratatouille Anton Ego is immediately brought back to a rich and vivid childhood memory and is completely transformed and rejuvenated by that experience. I can think of a wine I had recently in which I tasted Sea Salt and was teleported 5 years back to a beach in California where I watched Elephant seals. I hate elephant seals! They are noisy and smell terrible, (not to mention that day was cold and windy) but I love that this wine had the ability to bring me from the other side of the world, a tradeshow in China, back to California.
While I get excited when I find someone who has eaten blueberry before in China and can pick it out of a wine, finding that flavor for them seems so matter of fact. If we make an effort to understand the flavors that are important to cultures like China that are becoming excited about wine, maybe they will begin to 'experience' wine in a similar way with recognition of flavors like lychee, asian pear and purple mangosteen. (Hypocritically I do not know the Mandarin names for any of these fruits...yet)
Beyond understanding unique cultural flavors, comes understanding those cultures. I look at China and say, "How are 80% of wine sales in reds when Chinese food is full of rich and heavy spices"?! "Why don't they drink Sauvignon Blanc in SiChuan"? The first thing I try and remember when I these questions is my first experience with a true SiChuan meal where I thought I was going to pass out after my first bite of chicken baked with "mildly" spicy chicken. Instinctively I reached for my glass of cold ice water to put out the fire only to realize that all I had to drink was hot chrysanthemum tea! There was no cold water to drink in this area, it wouldn't be safe for me to drink, and the Chinese believe strongly that drinking hot liquids is healthy for you. Certainly there was no ice for drinking; there never had been. My other memorable experiences with food/drink pairing all involve 165 proof "Bai Jiu" which burns as badly as SiChuan food with hot tea and ensures that you will get to taste your meal a second time that night.
While of course it is my wish that China would drink more wine with food, and try more white wine with food, these wishes are based on my personal palate and preferences (based on my cultural upbringing). Before we try and push western trends onto a several thousand year old culture, or other cultures, it is important for us to try things their way as well and to gain a better understanding of their experiences with drink and food.
So, what does this mean? If you want to understand the Chinese wine palate, you have to experience the Chinese Palate. Eat Sichuan food with hot Tea, drink Bai Jiu, put coke and sprite in your wines, put ice cubes in your wine. Say "gan bei" (dry cup) and Chug a glass of wine. Try everything once before you judge it, and instead of judging it (and rejecting it or trying to change it), try and understand it and accept it. You will find drinking and talking about wine much more enriching in whatever new culture you choose and you will find it easier to share the things you love about your own culture as well. Rob.
i-wine.hk 13 (part 3 of 3 part tasting)
In this episode I taste through a few french reds and some champagne. Please provide feedback either on the site, youtube or my twitter @ Trobneville. Thanks - Rob
i-wine.hk 12 (South American Reds)
I taste through Chilean and Argentinian malbec, cabernet sauvignon syrah, merlot and carmenere found in Hong Kong in this part 2 of 3 tasting. Please give me feedback! - Rob
i-wine.hk 11 (part 1 of a 3 segment tasting)
The i-wine.hk blog is back!! Still can't find where the white retail in Hong Kong (or who brought them to the tasting). Please let me know if you know where to buy these or what they cost so I can share the info. The next two segments will be better but as always please give me feedback so I can improve the blog.
Yalumba Shiraz-viognier blend
on meds, tired and wasn't feeling it, so gave this wine another shot later. Still didn't like it
love the love!
video cut out, but thank you again for the support. Go Yankees!
Hilarious moments in LKF after Manu Liverpool game
what happens when rugby guys strawpedo 2 cases of smirnoff ice...well from 18-33 seconds a teammate of mine is licking an announcers face (at 2:10 I am taking this twitpic http://twitpic.com/mw7s8 (wearing white yankees hat in background)... but much better than that is what happens twice in the seconds after, performed by the same earlier teammate. The other idiots are friends as well! Too funny
Hong Kong winecast 9 (Annexx wine bar)
Drinking Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Lizards of Oz Chardonnay, and Plunkett Pinot Noir at Annexx wine bar in Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong. Go check the Annexx out if you haven't been before. YES, I PAID FOR THE WINE I DRANK!!
Hong Kong winecast 8
schug pinot noir
Hong Kong winecast 7
A break from wine today and trying some beer at Lan Kwai Fong Beer Bar LKF, Hong Kong. Stay tuned for a video from the Annex soon (thursday?)
Hong Kong Winecast 6
Happy National day! Big thanks to Bruce Graham (twitter @energyskulls) for a 'feel good' compliment on yesterday's video. If you are interested in Wine and/or Hong Kong, give me some suggestions, I will listen!
Hong Kong winecast 5
2007 red rover pinot grigio from California Sierra Foothills (Murphys). Also a little falafel!
Hong Kong morning bus ride
Hong Kong Typhoon winds
Some of my clips from the winds the other night
Hong Kong Pacific Coffee hack
As always, please offer your feedback. Thank you!
sleepless in Hong Kong
Me, after several days without sleep, trying to get work done in Pacific Coffee. Fail. The worst part is it's now a full day later without a real sleep or nap and my body doesn't know how to fall asleep anymore. Just laying in bed awake...
Lan Kwai Fong
Seizure Warning!! Wandered around LKF for 20mins filming. Didn't come out like I hoped, but I think the disorientation gives it a more realistic feel...
twitter fail
Support the blog!
The more support I get for the blog, the more I will create new content, so please help out and spread the word on twitter throughout HK. Real website coming soon...
Giving away bottle of 2003 ridge Zin to a twitter follower?
* Tweet "@trobneville" on twitter today about this video to be eligible for the wine give away if I don't create a new video tomorrow. You must also be located in Hong Kong (so that I can deliver the bottle to you).
Video not related to wine
Thank you to the 8 of you who have been watching my videos. I didn't do one yesterday and won't do one today, so here is a freebie from a few years back. I'll keep this up as a placeholder until I put out a new winecast. Enjoy...
7-11 merlot and Pizzeria Italia
Found some 250ml bottle wines at 7-11 in Hong Kong and decided to try them with some pizza from Pizzeria Italia.
Funny wine buyer at tradeshow
Story of wine sales in China. Lots of talk, little action. (Also a peak at how low my Mandarin has fallen...)
My Hong Kong Crib
Well... it has nothing to do with wine, but thought I would throw a video up about something. New one on wine coming shortly.
China/HK Winecast 4
Drinking Chinese white and red wine from Changyu and Greatwall vineyards on flight from China to California. As always, I really appreciate the feedback you give me as it helps me improve!
China/HK winecast 3
I might not be getting better, but at least this one's shorter!! Please continue to give me feedback as I do listen to all of it, and it helps me make a better show for you. Thanks, Rob
China/HK winecast 2
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I'm concerned about the emerging wine grape growing in China right now. It's their environmental practices that are the greatest concern. The US has made huge advancements in being green in our vineyards. Emerging countries are far now from green, and I continue to believe that I am what I eat and drink. Have you visited any of their vineyards in your travels?
ReplyDeleteHi Jo, I am looking forward to a tour later this summer of Chinese vineyards, but have not been yet since I my return return to China this March. As far as environmental practices, there issues at every level of the wine making process, although certainly not with every winery. At the forefront, many vineyards are being planted west of Beijing, and while the city itself suffers from massive pollution (just look at my photo album), it is really the coal burning factories outside of the city that are the biggest problem. In the same way that smoke taint can affect California grapes, pollution absolutely affects grapes. (Can you believe there was a dust/pollution cloud from China that traveled across the ocean and was visible over the bay area just a month and a half ago? Sick). I don't know what common practices for pest control are, but I doubt that many vineyards have been able to figure out the right formulas for cover crop and buggeries to allow them to not use pesticides. This is merely speculation though. What I do know, is there are wines that are not wine, (grape juice, alcohol, food coloring, sugar), that there are wines that use heavy additives (food coloring), and that many wines are misleading with either content; many chinese wines blend with imported grapes and many vintages are labeled incorrectly.
ReplyDeleteWhile my suggestion is always try new things and try everything, my main advice to you if you are truly concerned about content is to seek out the more established vineyards, and any vineyard with foreign investment. Grace Vineyard would be my number one pick as far as quality, and consistency goes as it is Hong Kong/ French invested, and has been accepted as a 'premium' Chinese wine. Hope this helps and I will look forward to creating a report on the vineyards when I am able to see them in person. Thanks again, Rob
(The manufacturers) add food coloring to dry white wine to make dry red wine
http://chinadigitaltimes.net/2008/10/chinese-wine-worse-than-tainted-milk/
The state broadcaster, China Radio International, said investigators earlier this year found that “many wines consist of little more than water, pigment and alcohol, with trace amounts of grape juice.”
http://www.mcclatchydc.com/homepage/story/19122.html